Between beauty and necessity, the wig market is rapidly growing in Egypt. Many women wear wigs to achieve their ideal look while protecting their natural hair from damage. At the same time, there is a growing movement to raise awareness and encourage hair donations to create more wigs for cancer patients.

Sarah Al-Deeb’s search for wigs for cancer-stricken family members led her to start a business to make and sell them. “During my search for wigs, I had to buy them online or travel abroad to buy them, as they were unavailable at the time in the same variety as they are now in Egypt,” she said.

“I also found that many wig sellers overlooked the need for wigs that meet the specifications required by cancer patients. I decided to leverage my business administration studies and the experience I had gained from my search to make and sell wigs as a business.”

Al-Deeb has now provided some 57 free wigs to women and children cancer patients. “We managed to modify traditional wig designs by replacing the usual combs inside the wig with a bonnet that patients can wear to secure the wig in place,” she said, adding that “we are currently working on producing more wigs that we can donate to children with cancer.”

Many women have also approached her to donate their hair to make wigs. A single wig requires hair from at least two donors, as each wig needs between 160 to 220 gm of hair to a length of 40 cm. Al-Deeb says that hair donation is a powerful way to support cancer patients, as they need reliable wigs made from natural hair, which does not tangle or get damaged as quickly as synthetic hair.

In addition to providing free wigs, Al-Deeb also offers a 25 per cent discount to patients who can afford natural hair wigs, explaining that despite synthetic wigs being more affordable, ranging from LE600 to LE2,000 in price, cancer patients who wear wigs most of the day prefer natural ones because they are less prone to damage.

The improvement in wig designs and styles in Egypt has also contributed to their new popularity, appealing not only to celebrities but also to the public at large. Mohamed Ali, a wig maker in Cairo, said that “wearing wigs used to be limited to specific situations, but many women are now encouraged to wear them more generally. The change is partly due to celebrities openly using wigs to showcase popular hairstyles in their work and avoiding damage to their natural hair.”

The manufacture of wigs has also evolved, as Ali explained. “In the past, wigs tended to be made with heavy leather bases that could be uncomfortable and hot to wear. Today, they are crafted with lightweight and breathable bases made from tulle and silk,” he said.

“Designs have also become much more natural; the bangs at the front of the wig are now inserted into transparent tulle to mimic the look of natural hair growth. The rest of the hair, which used to be glued, is now sewn by machine to look more realistic.”

Wig prices can vary, he said, adding that natural hair wigs start at LE6,000. Prices can be determined by different factors such as weight, hair length, and the type of hair used. Natural hair wigs have different qualities; some have strong and durable hair, while others wear out more quickly. For hair extensions, Ali explained that the price is calculated per gm, starting at LE30 for 60 cm hair, with the price increasing for longer lengths. 

Generally, most of his clients request hair lengths of 90 cm to suit various styles.

According to expert Rana Magdi, choosing a hair colour that complements your skin tone ensures a natural look. Wig colours and styles often reflect current fashion trends, and wigs in wolf cuts, lion cuts, and curtain bangs, which have made a comeback, are now all popular. Current colours include shades of copper, chocolate brown, cherry cola, and deep black.

The main choice for consumers largely comes down to natural versus synthetic wigs. Natural wigs are more expensive, but they are also generally superior. Magdi recommends various methods for beginners to determine whether the hair used in a wig is natural or synthetic. One method involves burning a few strands, as synthetic hair has a distinct plastic smell when burned. But while this can differentiate between natural and synthetic hair, it cannot determine the quality of the hair used in a natural hair wig.

To assess the quality of natural hair, Magdi recommended removing the colour from a strand and comparing the result to hair bleaching levels. If the hair lightens to level five or six, it is not high quality. Hair that lightens to level seven or eight is good, while hair that reaches level 10 is excellent and highly durable for heat styling and colouring.

Once a wig is selected, it is essential to make adjustments before wearing it to ensure a natural appearance. According to Magdi, before wearing a wig, the tulle at the front should be trimmed professionally to avoid excessive cutting, which could damage the wig or leave too much tulle visible, making it clear that it is a wig. If the wig is made only of see-through tulle without a silk lining, you can use a light eyeshadow to cover the edges, especially at the front, to stop the tulle from showing the natural hair of the wig wearer beneath.

“You can also make adjustments by trimming the hair between the layers if the wig is too thick for a client’s liking. You can cut the front hair to different lengths to achieve a more natural look, minimising the danger of the wig looking like a wig,” Magdi said.

“Over time, wigs may require maintenance and adjustments, such as replacing damaged sections due to mishandling. A wig can also be dyed or altered in style at a salon.”

Although wigs can be convenient for avoiding the daily hassle of styling hair, they also require maintenance that is similar to that needed by natural hair. Magdi explains that many people mistakenly think wigs are indestructible. However, they can become damaged due to frequent heat styling, hairsprays, and dyes. They should be washed once a month or every two weeks at most, as excessive washing can cause damage. It is crucial to avoid exposing them to sweat and dust.

“Wigs should be washed like natural hair with a suitable amount of shampoo, conditioned, and combed with a wide-toothed comb. They should then be gently patted dry with a towel, avoiding rubbing or wringing. It is better to braid a wig before entering the sea or a swimming pool and then to wash and condition it immediately afterwards,” Magdi said.

“Tangled wig hair is difficult to detangle and can lead to rapid damage,” he concluded.

* A version of this article appears in print in the 5 September, 2024 edition of Al-Ahram Weekly