Egyptian artists reviving culture through art and design

Sarah Elhosary , Tuesday 19 Nov 2024

Three Egyptian designers are reviving traditional art and design through nostalgia and cultural memory

photo: Mariam Sameh
photo: Mariam Sameh

 

Designers and artists often embark on daily journeys into the past, exploring old markets and traditional arts in search of inspiring motifs laden with beautiful memories from other eras that they then reinterpret in a modern style. 

Designer Mariam Sameh says that “I have always loved vintage clothing for its craftsmanship and design quality, which is why I used to roam through secondhand clothing markets, looking for unique pieces,” for example.

“Today, the clothing industry has shifted towards fast fashion, relying on synthetic fabrics that wear out quickly, unlike the silk, cotton, and other natural fabrics used in vintage clothes.”

Sameh decided to sell 20 surplus pieces from her collection, which she had gathered during her market trips, and announced their sale on Instagram. She was surprised by the demand. 

“When I started, only a few people sold secondhand clothes online. Over time, supply began to meet demand, so I started thinking about other products. I found my inspiration in Gobelin fabric, often used for upholstery, and I repurposed it into clothing designs,” she said.

Sameh faced many initial challenges, as the fabric, despite its durability, was difficult to shape to suit various designs. “We created multiple designs, consulting our clients to adjust the pieces and achieve practical, wearable designs. After several attempts, I was able to transform the fabric into makeup bags, laptop cases, and corsets,” she said.

According to Sameh, the fabric stands out for the classic images to be found on it, including of European countryside scenes and other motifs no longer found on other fabrics. The Gobelin fabric is also made of natural cotton, giving it durability and quality and making it popular with clients for its look and texture.

However, sourcing the fabric was a challenge, as Gobelin is not widely available and is used almost exclusively for upholstery, making it hard to find. Sameh constantly searches for it in old shops and markets dedicated to upholstery fabrics.

Despite the fabric’s traditional nature, Sameh has adapted it for modern designs to contemporary tastes. “Many stylists request our products for clients in commercial shoots, and eco-conscious customers appreciate our use of natural materials and secondhand clothing rather than producing new synthetic materials. We also add repairs or adjustments to enhance the items and keep them looking trendy,” she explains.

Lara Kawash Mousa is another designer who has mastered adapting traditional designs into contemporary forms. When she launched her design studio to create tableware and accessories, she often incorporated heritage symbols like the Hamsa eye into modern designs with popular colours. 

“These designs come from people’s lives and memories. They love and connect with them, so I ensure that every new collection includes pieces featuring these symbols,” Mousa said.

Alongside her reinterpretation of traditional motifs, Mousa recently introduced a collection of hand fans, a staple of heritage and culture and perhaps also a timeless symbol of fashion. The fans feature fresh designs with floral and other motifs that are hand-drawn before being applied onto the fans. 

Mousa has also designed a fan shaped like a slice of watermelon in the colours of the Palestinian flag as a nod to her heritage. “I have always incorporated designs that reflect my Palestinian roots. We have also created themed collections for occasions like Christmas and Ramadan,” she said.

Although Mousa started by sketching her designs by hand, she soon expanded by partnering with others and establishing a workshop to support women by teaching them crafts like glass painting and guiding them through the stages of production for economic empowerment. 

She shares her experience, mentioning the initial challenges any startup faces and the ongoing difficulties in sourcing quality materials. “I strive to offer products made from better materials each year. Although it is challenging, I am committed to improving our pieces to satisfy our customers,” she said.

 “Since I started drawing in my university notebooks, I’ve been trying to improve everyday objects. Everything around me inspires new ideas, which I use to design and decorate accessories or tableware. I reimagine the traditional motifs, elements, and symbols I see daily and apply them to create artfully styled pieces in a modern, unique way through my hand-drawing.”

Handwritten letters are one of the most powerful ways to revive cherished memories. They were a means of connection for our parents and grandparents, and over the decades they’ve preserved our stories and nostalgia for days gone by. 

Designer Salma Adel was inspired by her passion for crafting personalised messages by creating customised letters for individuals who wish to express their feelings in a thoughtful and handmade manner. She started her project from her desire to express affection with a handwritten message. She went to buy materials for a single letter but ended up purchasing enough for several, sparking the beginning of her venture. 

 “I felt that someone who sends a letter today, when we can communicate quickly and easily in so many other ways, in fact wants to express care and love, not just deliver a message,” Adel said.

She began exploring various markets to find suitable materials and paper. “I bought several types of paper until I found the most durable option to make the letters last. I’ve also formed connections with the owners of old bookstores who welcome me to explore their shelves for the books and magazines I use to decorate the letters. I initially shared and sold these letters within a group of friends and family,” she said.

Each letter is custom-made and personalised for the recipient. Before creating a design, Adel asks the sender to fill out a form with questions about the recipient’s likes, hobbies, and relationship to the sender to tailor the decoration to their taste. 

“I designed a questionnaire asking about the recipient’s activities, favourite colours, and relationship to the sender—whether family, a loved one, or a friend. For instance, if the recipient plays drums, I add drumstick stickers. I may also use an image of the recipient’s favourite artist to make the letter more special for them.”

Adel believes a letter is an intimate connection between sender and recipient, so she only creates the envelope and inserts the blank paper, leaving the sender to write the message.

“A letter is a way to convey emotions uniquely, recording moments with words or images. I imagine the letter staying with the recipient as a tangible reminder of the sender’s feelings, capturing their trembling handwriting from nervousness or feeling the joy or sorrow in their words and preserving a part of the sender within,” she said.

She has held workshops to teach others how to make letters, allowing participants to create them according to their taste. She even plans to offer a box kit containing all the materials needed to make a letter as a do-it-yourself gift for a loved one. 

She uses her previous experience as a social media marketing expert to present these letters as heartfelt, personal gifts. She has also started filming the letters she makes, pairing them with music from classic films to evoke a love for letters that mirrors a love of cherished memories.


* A version of this article appears in print in the 21 November, 2024 edition of Al-Ahram Weekly under the title: Reviving culture through art and design

 

 
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