My choice fell upon Moon Over Samarqand, authored by the esteemed wordsmith Mohammed Al-Mansi Qandil. The literary gem had been released several years prior to that date, yet had eluded my grasp until then.

This book possessed an enchanting spell, immersing me in the world and mythical persona of its protagonist, Noor Allah. The story traced their journey in the city of Samarqand and other places in search of an ancient secret that belonged to his father.

Since that moment, I had harboured dreams of visiting Uzbekistan, with a particular yearning for the city of Samarqand and its ancient Registan square..

This long-cherished dream was finally realized in 2023 when I received an invitation to cover the presidential elections in Uzbekistan.

After the elections on 9 July, I embarked on a train ride with my guide from the capital of Tashkent to Samarqand. The train, as is everything in the country, was meticulously clean and the whole journey lasted just over two hours.

With a mere six hours at my disposal, I wanted to see everything that my heart desired in this city of dreams. The Arabized Berber explorer Ibn Battuta eloquently described it as one of the finest, most beautiful cities that is the epitome of magnificence. UNESCO heralds the city as a melting pot of world cultures, an exquisite tapestry interwoven by the interactions of diverse societies.

After arriving in the early morning, my historical tour began under the guidance of a seasoned expert fluent in Arabic.

First, I visited the tomb of Prince Timur, known as the Gur-e Amir complex. The complex contains an opulent repository housing the mausoleum of Timur, his progeny, and his mentor, along with a mosque and the vestiges of a school. Afterward, we ventured to the renowned Registan complex, whose name translates to "sandy place" in Persian. This extraordinary ensemble encompasses three illustrious schools, with the Ulugh Beg Madrasah among them.

Continuing on, we explored the Shah-i-Zinda – the "Living King" – an architectural marvel where the tombs of numerous members of Timur's family rest. It also contains the shrine of Qutham ibn Abbas, the cousin of Prophet Muhammad who brought Islam to, and was martyred in, modern-day Uzbekistan. This shrine holds tremendous significance, as visitors from all walks of life converge to offer prayers and supplications during their pilgrimage. Among the other notable treasures is the mosque and tomb of Bibi Khanum, Timur's third wife, who hailed from Afghanistan and held a special place in his heart as she accompanied him on all his military conquests.

Last but not least, though short on time, I managed to catch a glimpse of the Samarqand Observatory, an edifice erected by Ulugh Beg, Timur's grandson. He was an avid astronomer and mathematician whose legacy ranks among the top ten astronomers of all time.

Samarqand, whose name in some narratives translates to “Fortress of the Earth,” is often referred to as the city of azure domes. Its history stretches back over 1,500 years before the Common Era. It is nestled in a vast oasis within the valley of the Zarafshan river in northeast Uzbekistan, in Central Asia, or as the ancients knew it, the lands beyond the river.

Today, it stands as the second most important city in Uzbekistan, second only to the capital, Tashkent. It once held the status of the capital city until 1930.

Timur
 

However, its present form and remaining artefacts date back to the era of the empire of Prince Timur. The prince had a great affinity for art and architecture, attracting the finest engineers, artists, and craftsmen from the lands he conquered, including Syria, India, China, Iran, and Turkey. Thus, the city represents a confluence of diverse cultures, and its geographical significance is derived from its location as the midpoint of the Silk Road, linking China to Europe.

The Uzbek people in general, and the inhabitants of Samarqand in particular, hold great respect and admiration for Timur, considering him a popular hero. They disapprove of the famous epithet “Timur the Lame,” a reference to the injury in his foot he sustained at the age of 27.

Born on 9 April, 1336, Amir Timur passed away in February 1405. He hailed from the Barlas tribe, which has Turkish origins but settled in what is now Uzbekistan. Timur ruled over the southern part of Samarqand and established an empire that spanned Central Asia, Afghanistan, Northern India, Iraq, Syria, Eastern Anatolia, and parts of the Caucasus region. Tragically, he succumbed to pneumonia from extreme cold while preparing to invade China.

Among the myths surrounding Timur, is what transpired six centuries after his death. During the Soviet occupation of Uzbekistan, Joseph Stalin ordered the opening of Timur's tomb to retrieve his remains and reconstruct his physical features using his skull.

The locals warned against this act, as a legend foretold a terrible and great war that would ignite if his body was disturbed. Timur inscribed two warnings on his grave: "When I rise from the dead, the world will tremble" and "Whoever disturbs me in my tomb will unleash invaders worse than me."

For five centuries, no one had dared to violate the sanctity of the tomb.

However, the Soviets paid no heed and excavated the tomb on 19 June, 1941, just three days before Germany launched Operation Barbarossa, invading the Soviet Union. Afterward, it appeared that Stalin had some faith in Timur's extraordinary capabilities because, according to the tale, he ordered the remains brought to the besieged city of Stalingrad (now Volgograd) to inspire its defenders and seek the prince's blessings.

To safeguard himself from further curses, Stalin ordered Timur's reburial with full Islamic rites in 1942.

Culinary flavour
 

One cannot overlook the exquisite cuisine I experienced in Samarqand and in Tashkent, such as the grilled lamb dishes and plov, a rice-based meal containing meat, nuts, raisins, carrots, and onions, all cooked together in large pots.

Horse meat is a particular favorite among the Uzbek people, but before serving any meal, they inquire about their guests' preferred meat options.

Their bread assortment ranges from something akin to Turkish simit to mashlut, similar to Egyptian feteer meshaltet.

Another delicacy is the samosa, a pastry filled with meat or vegetables.

The Uzbek people, known for their warm hospitality, have a special affection for Arabic speakers, particularly those from Egypt, thanks to the historical ties that date back to the Mamluk era and beyond. Many Uzbek students eagerly study Arabic under the guidance of Egyptian teachers. I encountered this firsthand, meeting a doctoral student in Arabic linguistics who talked his dream to study in Egypt at Al-Azhar University.

Since 1993, the Egyptian Education and Science Centre in Tashkent has been actively organizing continuous Arabic language courses and various cultural activities, attracting around 2,000 students. Additionally, Egypt provides approximately 20 scholarships for Uzbek students to study Arabic at Egyptian universities and another 20 scholarships for undergraduate and bachelor's degrees.

Despite my travels to many countries worldwide, Uzbekistan felt strangely familiar – its streets, people, food, customs, and history all resonated with me. My visit to Samarqand was a dream come true, where I felt as though I had stepped into a time machine and journeyed six centuries into the past.

Nonetheless, a part of the dream remains unfulfilled, as there are more cities and histories of Uzbekistan to explore, swimming alongside the time machine in places like Bukhara, Khiva, and Ferghana.

*The writer is a senior diplomatic reporter with Al-Ahram newspaper.