Crossover for winter and 'contaminations' for spring fashion

ANSA, Saturday 3 Dec 2011

Dolce & Gabbana start a revolutionary trend, injecting or 'contaminating' food into fashion, while women's winter fashion sees injections of sexy masculinity

Dolce & Gabbana Spring 2012 collection

Dolce & Gabbana turned their most recent catwalk show into the main thoroughfare of a southern Italian town, decked out in lights in celebration of the beauty represented by Sophia Loren in the film Pane, Amore etc.

The show presented the idea of a woman dressed in sheath-dresses and camiknickers and 1950s vegetable print skirts, dotted with tomatoes, aubergines, onions, courgettes and peppers. Outfits are topped off by pasta-shaped drop earrings, a few cherry tomatoes and garlic shapes dangling in between, in honour of Mediterranean cooking's favourite ingredients. Crossover, or contamination, is the watchword of the moment as the idea provides a link between fashion and the art of cooking, literature, cars, art and cinema. So contaminations, striking contrasts, forays into different fields and mixed styles abound to liven up an individual item or become the spirit of an entire collection.

Tomboy style is one of the main trends of the autumn-winter 2011 season. Men's style is plundered for women's outfits, especially in terms of materials and male fantasies. Houndstooth, checks and Glen plaid will star in this winter's fashion, while the shape of women's clothes will be creatively contaminated by male details and lines. The prêt-a-porter shows have brought long, male-inspired overcoats, trousers, often long and wide ones, bow-ties and braces. This style has been seized upon by Frankie Morello, Dolce & Gabbana and Costume National. Moschino even combines a black V-neck sweater with a long antique gold-coloured evening dress, the waist tightened with a subtle belt.

Mixes and contaminations are also present in the colour scheme. Black and earthy tones alternate with brighter shades.

Trussardi matches a red leather hooded cloak with a black bag, gloves and shoes. Dolce & Gabbana offer bags and accessories in orange, lime green, yellow and pink with their black skirts and jackets. Ferragamo has a plaid skirt to be worn with a tight-waisted jacket boasting feminine Vichy checks. Angelo Marani matches paw-print trousers and gold-coloured cashmere designs with a leopard-print blouse. On top comes a cardigan with large braids and a wide-brimmed male hat, conveying a very 1970s look.

Dolce & Gabbana, meanwhile, borrow printed typesetting characters for more feminine tricot items and for trouser suits, while Brioni pairs the classic male camelhair overcoat with satin blouses, complete with a fuchsia-coloured bow and soft trousers.

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